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Construction Applications
Concrete Use Tips - Large Pours |
Here are some application tips, thanks for giving EZ-Poly Concrete Crack Filler a try. Note - the product is different from other structural fillers you may have used:
It's a very strong bonding structural filler that adheres to and seals most anything it touches including itself.
It works on most any material except grease and flexible surfaces.
Safe to use - both indoors and out; not an epoxy, no odors, not flammable.
In curing, it starts out like pancake batter - easy to pour into hard to get to places; then becomes like modeling clay that can be sculpted; then hardens like concrete but still can be sanded, nailed into, sawed, etc.
It can be applied in wet conditions (even under water) so reduced downtime and costs from rain delays.
Application of the product is easy, just follow the instructions you get with your product. Keys to remember are:
All surfaces to be bonded must be free of oil, grease, paint and unsounded materials, which would prevent a solid bond. If using on new concrete, sandblast or acid etch and rinse the concrete surface first to remove the scrim (top surface) coating that forms on new concrete. Sweep or vacuum concrete cracks and surfaces before filling with EZ-Poly Concrete Crack Filler (CCF) for best results.
A simple board form can be used to make a temporary mold around the area. We often recommend a 1x3x10 for projects nailed end to end to form a box if possible. Place a few braces of some kind against the outside of the wood to keep it from bending out as the product is heavy when poured. For a mold release use WD40 or a plastic rubbery tape to affix to the inside of the boards. Also seal the inside bottom where the board and the cement meet with a couple of layers of tape to keep the CCF from seeping out the bottom of the board.
CCF has an extended curing time meaning it changes it's properties from a liquid (0-5 minutes) that flows into the smallest cracks, to a paste (5-10 minutes) that can be used on vertical surfaces, then to a moldable clay material (10-30 minutes) that can be cut or trimmed without altering its strength. CCF then hardens to the consistency of concrete in about two hours. When cured it can be cut, sanded, drilled, shaved, painted, stained, and nailed without shattering. CCF is fully cured in 24 hours. This extended curing time allows you the flexibility you need to make your project right the first time.
Mix in equal proportions by volume, 1:1 ratio. Pre-mix each component until thoroughly stirred and creamy smooth without lumps. Use separate stirring devices for each component to avoid premature mixing. Use a dispenser machine (we can recommend some) or mechanically mix both parts together at slow speeds (600-900 rpm) using a drill and jiffy blade, scraping the sides to ensure complete blending of components. Mix is complete when it is smooth and the color is consistent throughout. Mix only the amount that can be applied within the product's pot life. Pot life will decrease as the ambient temperature and/or mass size increases. As you will want the CCF to be in its most liquid consistency when you pour so it will self-level, plan your work accordingly.
Often a pour is large enough that a seal is needed on the bottom and prevent the weight of subsequent pours forcing leaks out the bottom. In that case pour in stages starting with a first sealing pour of 1/4 - 1/2 inch of 100% CCF (no aggregate) that covers the entire area and let it cure for about two hours.
After the first sealing pour if you want to extend the coverage of the product you can add an aggregate of 1/4 -1 inch pebbles/rocks to subsequent pours, we recommend no more than 70 percent of the pour be aggregate. Use dry aggregate for best results. Starting with the second pour, as you pour add or layer the aggregate making sure it is well encapsulated with no air pockets. Advanced tip: If you need to be able to sand the edges to make them rounded or have the top surface smooth keep the aggregate away from the edges/top. Or aggregate can be added to the top of the pour so it sticks out for a rough surface. If no aggregate is desired just continue pours of CCF.
Pour the CCF in its most liquid consistency so it will self-level then shape it with the trowel to correct any undulations or create an incline if desired. Pour enough to fill the void completely. CCF will expand a little and can be then carved if not fully cured or sanded if fully cured to get the desired finish. For vertical applications allow the mix to cure until thick enough to trowel. NOTE: Use a wide trowel and spray it with WD40 or equivalent and wipe clean as needed for best results. CAUTION: Do not let material cure too much or it will not properly bond to substrate.
A major advantage of CCF is it is completely safe environmentally because it does not have any toxic UV inhibitor chemicals in it. So while it will discolor in direct sunlight it can be painted with any paint for plastic or you can use a primer for plastic or shellac and then paint it with any paint or finish.
Wear latex gloves if you like to keep your hands clean, the product will stick to skin but is not hazardous. Clean tools and equipment immediately with acetone or scrape with a blade. Clean equipment away from all ignition sources and avoid breathing vapors of acetone. Should the acetone come in contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with soap and water. CCF will stick to skin if allowed to cure, wash off uncured CCF with soap and water or lemon juice. If cured on skin use stiff fingernail brush to remove.
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